Hiking in the Cloud Forest

“What was the highlight of Panama?” In response to everyone who asks this question the answer is: hiking in the cloud forest. I love hiking for views, which is why I always choose to on clear days. But know, I think I am going to start hiking ONLY on days with a chance of low level clouds, in a canopy, in a tropical climate, covered in mosses, flowers and plants that look like they are out of a story book. Does any one know of a place nearby? An Hablya guide, Alvero, and I, hiked up to Cerro Punta. My heart was racing from the steep steps and climbing. I kept thinking the clouds might clear up and we could see the mystical views of the Pacific Ocean and town of Boquete. Turns out, you would have had to tear away layers of clouds to see any of that, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. I have never experienced looking straight out and seeing nothing but clouds. If they could catch me, I would have had more courage to jump into the clouds than I did the in the waters of Los Cangilones de Gualaca. Many people do this hike with out a guide, but I am glad I had one with me! When I took the lead I took a wrong turn, and passed the trail head on the way up. So lucky me, got pulled back in the right direction before venturing into the cloud forest solo. The hike is about six miles and the hihest point you will reach is 6,500 feet. Sturdy shoes are needed, and a tide pen, because you they make get soaked in mud by the time you are coming off Los Quetzals Trail! But a mud, clouds, beautiful scenery…I know I know, enough said, Ill see you there!

Los Cangilones de Gualaca

UNO, DOS, TRES…JUMP! I still stood there. And again. UNO… Ohhh I was shaking. Finally to the count of TRES and I jumped into the cool water of Los Cangilones de Gualaca. A narrow channel that soon forms into a larger channel, after a few seconds of free floating. It doesn’t look that intimidating, but for me it was. There is something that gets my adrenaline pumping more than a high dive ever will. I watched my Habla Ya guide jump in with no problem. uno, dos, tres, and he actually jumped. I uno, dos, tres’ed and stood, and retried and rethought. But let me tell you, when you give yourself no other choice and just jump, it’s that rush we all crave. The best part is you don’t feel like frozen needles are piercing your skin, and you are short of breath. I can’t think of a more perfect temperature. But say that you are cold-blooded, no problem. Get your adrenaline rush on, hop out and recoup by lying on the rocks that surround the water. They radiate as much heat as the environment radiates a fantastic environment. There is no tourist shed selling t-shirts, a line or a Popsicle cart man pushing you to buy some helado. It’s just you, your crew and the energy surging water waiting for you to jump on in.

Caldera Hot Springs And Petroglyphs

You could attempt to find the Caldera Hot springs and Petroglyphs on your own, or you could find a tour guide or group. Lucky for me HablaYa took the lead. We headed to Caldera, about thirty minutes from Boquete. We first took in some history at the Petroglyphs. We climbed up and down the rocks and studied the ancient drawings etched by who knows. My favorite were all the smiley faces, they must have been pretty happy people, and as I looked around in every direction, I could see why.
After the petgroglpyhs you are a short drive 15 minutes away from dipping in the Caldera Hot Springs! The hot springs are located on a private farm, which is another reason why you should go with a guide. We tried out three different hot springs, all different temperatures ranging from 38 to 46 degrees Celsius. And in Fahrenheit that would convert to… PERFECT!
The best part about these hot springs is you feel like you are a modern day Christopher Columbus and stumbled right upon them. They looked untouched, trees streaming across them, up them and rocks lay perfectly around.
Now every time I walk by a pool of water I want to take a quick dip in, but I am sure nothing compares to Caldera.

La Milagrosa Coffee Plantation

Boquete Day One: The real experience of a coffee plantation. A trip to Finca La Milagrosa. If you are going to visit a coffee plantation you might as well have the full experience. Tito Vargas will show you the process from the tree all the way to a filled cup in front of you. Whether you like coffee or not, its an entertaining education. Especially with the personality that Tito Vargas brings. I ask Tito how many cups of coffee he drinks a day, and he tells me, zero, he never drinks coffee! How could a coffee farmer be so anti-coffee? He then smiles to tell me, he jokes, he drinks 14 cups a day, 14 cups that are muy grande. Then to tell me the truth, he usually settles around two to three. The tour starts in the field, and if you ask nicely you can wear a berry pickers basket around your waist and get to work. From here the berries are washed, dried, roasted, ground and French pressed to be poured into your cup. You will leave with a clarity of how coffee is made. I had a special day at Tito’s. He invited some friends over and we tasted the difference between the roasts of American, French and Italian coffee. French was the general consensus of the favorite so we headed upstairs to see more of Tito’s hand made equipment. His coffee grinder includes a car tranismission, parts of a computer, I mean not just homemade but he really wings it when it comes to making everything. I walked out with coffee I made, because Tito lets this be a hands on process, and hands down was one of the highlights in Boquete! Make sure you check in with the HablaYa office before going and they will get you set up on the tour!

HorsebackingintheCalderaMountains

If only I had room for my straw cowgirl hat in my luggage. My second day in Boquete found me traversing the different trails in the Caldera mountains. Sounds great right? Well, I am not a natural with horses. Once I was on the saddle I didn’t want to come off because I knew it would be a process, and another boost to get me back on. And my knees started to ache because they were my grip on the saddle when we crossed over steams. I was nervous to pull on the reigns because it always gave my pretty pony the idea it was time to pick up to a jaunt, which only made my knees grip harder. And harder still when we were crossing streams that you wouldn’t run across because of the depth and larger size boulders the horse strategically made his way around. Oh yes, and this is not a beginner trail persay… it’s steep going up, which means even steeper going down.
However, let me tell you. Everything turned out perfectly, and who wants to ride a horse on flat ground, that is predictable. Giddy up! I felt more comfortable as the switchbacks guided us to a photogenic viewepoint of Volcan Baru, the highest point in Panama, about 11.000 feet. And on a clear day you can see the Pacific Ocean. Regardless of if you will find cloud cover in the views, get out here and ride! There is nothing but green, gold, running streams, and volcanic walls surrounding you. And hopefully my horse that had the punchy personality.
I don’t think my riding sound effects off “EASY GIRL!” and just a plain “AHHHHHHHH!” (only something an wannabe cowgirl would say) was entertainment enough for my horsey. This horse found entertainment in teasing the other horses. If one of these studly stallions found his way at a water stop, mine would put his head right in there until the other would stand straight up and walk away with some sass. Persistant little bugger! Even when water was not involved he would nudge the other horses until they nudged back and our cowboy guide, Nodier, would have us separate. I am telling you these horses will get you to the bottom and top no problem and you will laugh along the way. I think its time for me to invest in a real cowgirl hat.

Boquete, Adventuerers Welcome!

Boquete is an absolutely an adventurers town. Let me give you a glimpse of what the two weeks brought. Saddling up an unpredictable horse, jumping into a running river off narrow cliffs, riding waves in a raft, reading books to young indigenous children, striding on trails, tipping out of a kayak, and zip lining 80 k.m.h…ahhhhhhh!
Before I left for Panama, you bet I had some wide eyes, and a fair amount of warning signs. My dad worried that I would be taken for ransom, my mom feared the same. So of course I came into Panama treading with caution. Most anywhere you go in the world these days; it seems you need some amount of caution and to stay on your toes. However, I will say the honest, friendly, hardworking people of Boquete helped me make the adjustment in less than a morning. I was in a tourist office the first day and asked a simple question that I feared would come back with a halting answer of “NOOOO WAY LOCA CHICA!” Ok, so here’s the question: “Is it safe to walk around Boquete by myself?”
I directed the question quietly at one guide but it got the attention of the whole office. There was a silence, I could hear my heart racing, thinking, “CARRI why would you ask that, of course you need a body guard in this city!” But where could I find one? The silence turned to smiles, a little laughter and they said with complete eye contact and reassurance… “You are very safe here.”
Well that was that. I was strolling around the town with my umbrella in hand, smile on my face and comfort in my head. Buying a mango for a 25 cents, a plantain for 15 cents and guanabana for 35 cents, I was set for a fruit fiesta. The stores are simple. The variety and masses offered are slim compared to the states. The beauty is that you really appreciate the small stuff. It’s not about fashion and trends here, it’s about community.
In a small town of Boquete you better like the local bars and restaurants. But how could you not? They all bring out atmosphere and community, and it’s where you will find everyone! In the two weeks I was here I started to see I would meet someone and see them again that same day or later that week. And never a reintroduction is necessary, just another hello and pulling up a seat to chat.
I saw my guide from the zipline tree trek at at a charity benefit the same night. Stopping to talk to a lady in the tourist information center led us to meet again at a local restaurant that same night. I started up a conversation with some tourists in a coffee shop and as I was driving out of Boquete we waved goodbye.
It really is more than the pure life here, it’s the simple life where you just can’t help but smile and see that worries won’t get you anywhere.

Until next time Boquete!

Boquete is a place that I refuse to say adios too, only hasta luego! I have a feeling I will be back in this mountain village, placed perfectly in the middle of a valley that oozes energy, life and new ideas. Horns honk to say hello. Indigenous dresses with beaming smiles behind them stroll the streets. An array of wildlife, flowers and terrain situated outside of the town waits to be explored. Doors open to shops filled with an eclectic selection. Nothing lit me up more than talking to someone who is straight up Panamanian. This means I could practice my Spanish; they could practice their English, and let the endless roll of questions begin with Carri’s curiosity. The questions of public vs. private education for children, labor laws, their health care system, the general consensus on Martinelli, and how they view foreigners starting businesses here. It seems that most are open to the migration of foreigners to Central America because they create jobs for Panamanians and business models they can follow themselves. I think the Panamanian government is spot on to develop rules for Ex-Pats that they must employ a majority of Panamanians. Of course the loving term Gringo had to develop somewhere and I would be lying if I said foreign migration is loved by all. It is the foreigners that come in with a good heart, not a greedy heart, that make ex-pats welcome. Of course, Boquete is mostly represented by Panamanians, and I think their culture, language and traditions should always come first. However, the fact that so many ex-pats come here not only to retire but to become pioneers, entrepreneurs and to make a life shows the diversity of the area. French, Canadian, American, Dutch, Brits, South African… that’s only a start. But it is refreshing to see a community like Boquete stay true to itself but welcome and support new ideas and business. I mean as delicious as the rice and beans are, it would be impossible to have an appetite for them every night. Cleary, Panamanian food runs the gamete; there is chicken, steak, corn, tamales, ceviche, yucca and more and more! And bless them for platano maaduro, a plantain cut it small pieces and fired. However, here you have Mexican and Italian. Or you can venture into authentic Israeli, Argentian, or Japanese cuisine… and the authentic face behind it, making it fresh everyday. It’s not just about the food but the stories, backgrounds and open hearts people bring. The valley of Boquete is one of those special places where you will find exactly what you are looking for, and even a bucketful of surprises along the way.